Hawaii, noch schöner als erwartet

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Hawaii  beginnt mit der Insel OAHU

Endlich, endlich Hawaii, ich lande in Honolulu, der Hauptstadt der Hawaii Inselgruppe auf der Insel  Oahu.  Honolulu, wieder eine Großstadt, internationaler Flughafen.

Ich hab mich riesig gefreut auf Hawaii, und nun?

Seit San Franzisko reise ich einarmig. Ich habe mir den linken Arm gebrochen. Die Entscheidung weiter zu reisen, war nicht ganz einfach und noch immer ist sie nicht endgültig.

Was kann ich tun, alles ist beschwerlich und vor allem langsam. Doch die Erfahrungen der letzen Tage sind so ermutigend, ich bekomme überall Hilfsangebote. Im Flieger bot mir der Nachbar, ein kambodschanische Förster,  sofort seinen Platz an, weil mein Arm da mehr geschützt war und half mir bis zum Taxi mit dem Gepäck. Fürsorglich fragte er immer wieder ob alles o.k. ist und ob er etwas tun könne.

In Honolulu findet ein internationaler Waldkongress statt, dort sind scheinbar die Ranger und Waldschützer aus der Welt versammelt. Denn das Taxi teile ich mir mit Schweitzern die zum Kongress gehen.

Es ist warm, schön warm, mit einer leichten, samtig -weichen Brise, angenehm. Ich genieße schon an diesem Abend, die feuchte, sanfte Luft der Subtropen, die oft Düfte der zahlreichen Baumblüten mit sich bringt.

Die Blütenpracht, die nicht nur duftet sondern sich sich dann am nächsten Tag auch in den prächtigsten Farben präsentiert

Das Internationale Universitäts Hostel liegt, ruhig, beschaulich, in der Seaview Avenue in Manoa, einem alten  Stadtteil außerhalb von Honolulu, nahe der Universität.

Es ist so gemütlich, es ist alles sauber und hat einen kleinen Garten mit Palmen und dem Erdbeerguavenbusch, von dem alles Gäste naschen dürfen. Alles gleich anheimelnd. Aloha ist die Begrüßung, wohin man kommt. Was mag es bedeuten.

Im Hostel löst sich das Rätsel.

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Im Hostel bieten  junge Leute an beim Kochen zu helfen. Zofia aus Ungarn schneidet die Maiskolben parat, das hätte ich nie hingekriegt. Sie freut sich riesig als sie dann einen Maiskolben abbekommt, sie sagt sie war ganz verrückt darauf, wollte aber nicht fragen. Sie hat deutsch und englisch studiert und war mit drei anderen auf einem Sommercamp in USA. Sie freut sich auch deutsche sprechen zu können. So viele kleine Hilfen von allen Seiten, erhellen mein grad nicht so optimistisches Gemüt und machen mir die Entscheidung leichter.

Langsam kommt der Wunsch: weiterreisen, nicht abbrechen.

Ich beginne wieder etwas zu unternehmen. Wandere zu den Maona-Wasserfällen über Stock und Stein im wahrsten Sinne, hohe Stufen, matschige Areale, doch mit Stock geht es.

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Der Bus bringt mich für einen Dollar zur Northshore, stundenlang fahre ich am Ufer des Pazifiks entlang, mit teils riesigen, schäumenden Wellen, mit malerischen weißen Sandbuchten, Surfparadiesen, Beachparks  und auf der anderen Seiten samtiggrün überzogene Lava- Kegelberge, kleine Dörfer, Wiesen, hie und da auch mal Kühe, wunderschöne, breit ausladende Bäume, auch Nadelbäume deren Nadelbüscheln wie der bayrische Gamsbart nach oben stehen.

Das mache ich noch einmal und steige beim Polynesien-Cultur-Center aus. Dort stellen  die Inseln Polynesiens die Besonderheiten ihrer Kultur vor, knacken Kokosnüsse mit der Hand, klettern auf hohe Palmen, Tonga zeigt die besondere Stoffproduktion aus Rinden, geschmückt mit Naturfarben und traditionellen Mustern, die unterschiedlichsten Tänze und Musikinstrumente, Leckereien der verschiedenen Völkergruppen, werden  angeboten.

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Auch Samoa meine nächste Reiseetappe präsentiert sich. Da bekomme ich schon einen  Eindruck vom Leben auf dieser Insel, besonders als der Samoaner im Baströckchen seinen Tanz vorführt.

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Natürlich muß ich einen Tag am Waikiki-Strand verbringen.

Dieses treiben ist es wert. Es ist ein Genuss diese überschäumende Lebensfreude der Surfer und Surferinnen in den wilden Wellen zu sehen, die der Pazifik hier zum Strand schick. Die Sonne, die alle Wolken ins Land zu den Bergen zu vertreiben scheint, hält sich tapfer an diesem Strand, den ganzen Tag. Es ist heiß, sehr heiß, nur der Schatten hinter dem Sandstrand ist für viele und auch für mich erträglich.

Schon ganz spannend der Sandstrand und die vielen  höchst unterschiedlichen Menschen, alt und jung, groß und klein, alle Nationalitäten, alle Hautfarben, übrigens auch dunkelhäutige bekommen Sonnenbrand, tummeln sich hier, sonnenbaden, grillen, lesen, balancieren auf aufgespannten Bändern, Ballspiele,  paddeln mit Surfbrett am Ufer entlang , buddeln im Sand, Kinder toben, spielen nachlaufen, schwimmen oder üben schwimmen mit einem Schaumstoffschlauch, springen in die Wellen  und vieles mehr.

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Essen aus Plastikbehältern ist auch hier sehr beliebt, unzählige kommen mit großen Tüten, aus denen dann Plastikschalen mit allerlei Leckereien auf die Decken oder Tische befördert werden, vom Imbiss, die es an jeder Ecke gibt.

Ein buntes, fröhliches Tun auf allen Seiten rund um mich herum.

Menschen, suchen in den Abfalleimern nach Plastikflaschen, da kommen die Stadtmüllentsorger mit einem kleinen Elektrowagen, hat grad noch mal geklappt die Flaschen vorher raus zu sortieren um sich etwas zu verdienen

KAUAI

die nördlichste Insel ist das nächste Ziel. Das Kauai- Beach-House -Hostel, liegt direkt am Strand, nur ein Wander- und Radweg dazwischen, Einschlafen und Aufwachen mit Meeresrauschen, sowie dem Blick auf den Pazifik und die Palmen, das ist das Schönste an diesem Haus.

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Nein stimmt nicht, das miteinander im Frauenschlafsaal, ist ebenbürtig. Schnell lerne ich  Sarah und Deema kennen, die beiden  soo netten libanesischen Schwestern, die jetzt in Dubai leben und sich rührend, ja liebevoll um mein Wohl kümmern.

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Herzlichen Dank ihr Beiden, wenn ihr das richtig übersetzt bekommt. Sie bringen eine Fischspezalität mit, die ich unbedingt probieren soll, wir teilen die Ananas, sie wandern und sagen mir welche Wege ich gehen kann, z.B. zum Sleeping Giant, davon später mehr. Sie fahren mit mir einkaufen, nehmen mich mit zum Hindutempel und zum Wasserfall, helfen mir den ollen Plastikbezug wieder auf die Matratze zu bringen, den ich abzihen musste, das war unerträglich, am Tag des Auscheckens. Wir fahren gemeinsam zum Flughafen, da Deema ungefähr zur selben Zeit fliegt. Ach ja vorher fahren wir noch zu einer Imbissbude, wo es ein geniales, Frühstück gibt.  Sie sind wie sorgende  Töchter, es ist rührend. wie werde ich die beiden vermissen.

Upps, schon am Airport, das ist zu früh. Schließlich habe ich auch einiges abenteuerliche alleine unternommen.

Die Insel ist wirklich wie ein einziger schöner Garten, der immer sauber, frisch und prächtig ist. Denn es regnet jeden Tag und verwelken gibt es quasi nicht. Eine Blütenpracht wohin man kommt. Auch hier versuche ich es mit dem Bus, der direkt vor der Türe hält. Doch der ist immer wie ein Kühlschrank und einige Leute im Hostel empfehlen mir per Anhalter zu fahren, das geht hier problemlos, sagen sie. Ja, Mädels denke ich, als ich so jung war wie ihr, da ging das auch.

Doch kaum stehe ich an der Bushaltestelle hält eine alte Dame und fragt ob ich mit fahren möchte. So einfach kann es also gehen. ich will in den Südwesten zu einem Gebirgszug mit einem Canyon. Dort fährt ohnehin kein Bus hin. Die halbe Etappe fahre ich mit ihr. Sie klagt mir ihr leid, sie habe zwei Freundinnen in diesem Jahr durch Tod verloren, mit diesen wollte sie noch soviel reisen.

Dann geht es weiter an der Strasse, es scheinen hier viele Menschenfreunde unterwegs zu sein. Ich werde mitgenommen und bekomme das Angebot  anzurufen falls ich zurück niemanden finde. Ein junger Mann, er sei Christ und tue gern was Gutes.

Und so ähnlich geht es weiter, ich komme bis zum Ende der Strasse zu einem Vally wo ich auf das andere Inselufer schauen kann, sehe den wunderschönen Waimea Canoyn.

Komme wieder zurück zum Hostel, nach einem Zwischenstopp an einem weißsandigen Badestrand. Doch baden geht ja nicht bei diesen Wellen. Ein ausgefüllter Tag, mit interessanten Kontakten und viel Landschaft.

Jetzt bin ich mutig geworden, am nächsten Tag will ich zum Aninistrand, der ist ganz ruhig und dort kann ich ins Meerwasser tauchen, mein  Arm kommt in eine Plastiktüte. Ich sehne mich danach endlich Mal in den Pazifik auf Hawaii.

Ja, ich werde vor dem Hostel aufgelesen und zum Aninistrand gebracht, ich will von der Strasse dorthin laufen, doch der freundliche Mann lässt es nicht zu, das sei viel zu weit und setzt mich erst am Strand ab.

Ich kann dort baden, juchu, und sonnen nach Herzenlust endlich eintauchen ins Wasser, auch wenn der linke Arm draußen bleiben muss. Ich genieße diesen Strandtag sorgenfrei. Zurück frage ich gleich einen jungen Mann, der grad ins Auto steigt, ob er mich mitnehmen kann. Gerne sagt er, er ist sehr interessiert, fragt allerlei und erzählt von seinen Reisen, er war in Alaska, denn seine Mutter sei von dort der Vater aus Japan, dort wolle er als nächstes hin.

Es ist interessant welche unterschiedliche Menschen ich kennengelernt hab auf diesem Weg. Ich werde das Gefühl nicht los, dass  ich das alles dem Missgeschick mit meinem Arm zu verdanken habe.

Wieder ein wunderschöner Tag.

Dann fahren mich die beiden jungen Frauen aus Dubai und ihre Freundin Maria aus Kalifornien zum Wanderpunkt auf zum Sleeping Giant, geben mir noch einen Stock mit und los geht’s morgens um 9:00h.

 

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Sieht gut aus, die Steigung ist moderat, der Pfad gut zu gehen, die Sonne schon schön warm, aber noch nicht heiß. Im Gebüsch sind wieder jede Menge Hühner und Hähne am Scharren und Gackern. Die sind hier überall freilaufend und legen ihre Eier hin wo sie wollen. Nach dem letzten Tzunami sind alle aus den Ställen geflohen, man hat sie nicht mehr eingefangen. Sie vermehren sich auch völlig selbstständig. Überall, auch an den belebten Strassen sieht man die Hennen mit ihren Küken. Sie gehen auch über die Strasse, ich hab die Augen zu gehalten. Meistens geht’s wohl gut. Man die Insel aus diesem Grund auch die Hühnerinsel. Postkarten mit prächtigen Hähnen und Hühner findet man überall.

Weiter geht’s den Berg hinauf, höher und höher, es macht  viel Spaß, immer wieder schöne Ausblicke zur Küste und auf Ka’paa, den Ort wo ich wohne. Vorbei an prachtvollen Bäumen, exotischen Blüten und den Erdbeerguaven, die ich schon in Oahu kennenlernen und geniessen konnte. Die leckeren Früchte sammle ich gleich ein auf meinem Rückweg.

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Doch da, was ist das? Da soll ich rauf, eine steile Passage, mit rutschigen nur angedeuteten Stufen, eine Frau sitzt dort und sagt, da geht’s nur steil weiter. Was haben die Mädels da gesagt, es sieht  so aus als sei das das Ende meiner Wanderung nach einer halben Stunde.

Da kommen Wanderer von oben, der Mann meint, ist nur das kleine Stück alles andere ist problemlos. Doch ich stehe da und zeige auf meinen Arm. Komm hierher sagt er, ich kann helfen. Eins, zwei, drei bin ich oben und weiter geht’s. Die Beiden gehen weiter nach unten. Die Frage nach dem, wie komme ich da wieder runter, stelle ich mir erst mal nicht. Wandere bis ganz oben wo man zu mehreren Seiten auf die grün bewachsenen Vulkanhügel sehen kann, eine Landschaft wie aus dem Bilderbuch. So nun geht’s wieder abwärts. Ich begegne verschiedenen Leuten und schaue schon Mal wer wohl bereit und grad dort ist mir Hilfestellung zu geben. Dann stehe ich vor dem Problem, alleine da runter, keinesfalls. Es ist warm, ich suche ein Schattenplätzchen, ruhe erst mal und denke nach.

Ich muss zu der unüberwindbaren Stelle, ich muss da hinunter. Da  zwei Leute von unten, sie fragen gleich ob ich Hilfe benötige, natürlich, ja die brauche ich. Klar helfen wir, eine kleine Handreichung dann ist es getan, nur ein Schutzwall, das reichte schon.dsc_1901           dsc_1941           dsc_1902

Mein Herz macht einen Sprung, ich hab’s geschafft. Fröhlich pflücke ich von den saftigen, süßsäuerlich schmeckenden  Erdbeerguaven und bin bald wieder an der Strasse .

Was für eine Freude.

Noch einen Tag an dem ich nach Hanalei fahre einem zauberhaften Ort an der Nordseite der Insel. Hier sieht alles aus wie eine Puppenstube. Eine Bay, die nicht von hohem Wellengang heimgesucht wird, daher bleibt dort alles verschont wenn anderswo, ein überaus hoher Wellengang einmal etwas unter Wasser setzt.

Hier lässt es sich leben, geht es mir  öfter durch den Kopf, beim erkunden der Insel.

Dann verabschieden wir uns von Sarah und Maria, die uns zum Flughafen gebracht haben. Deema und ich fliegen nach Honolulu. Sie dann weiter nach Dubai und ich nach Big Island. Wieder ein Abschied.

Was erwartet mich auf Big Island, die Unterkunft konnte ich nicht buchen. Sie haben auf meine mails nicht reagiert. Eine Gemeinschaft Cinderland genannt, es wurde notfalls ein Matratze im Yogaraum angekündigt, für Leute die nicht gebucht haben.

Damit kann ich leben.

Doch dann frage ich am Airport, es gibt dort ein Touristinfo für solche Fälle, doch Fehlanzeige, es gibt keine Telefonnummer, Adresse die  ich habe ist unbekannt. Der Mann bemüht sich wirklich sehr engagiert, doch nix.

Dann Plan B, ich gehe in’s Hilo Bay Hostel und schaue was morgen zu erreichen ist. Rein ins Taxi ab nach Hilo. Schön ist es dort, ich bleibe dann 3 Tage, Cinderland ist vergessen.

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Es ist ein 100 Jahre altes, ehemaliges Herrenhaus, mit einem Treppenaufgang aus Holz, in den ersten Stock, solche Häuser sieht man hier öfter. Antiquitäten, hängen an den Wänden, sogar auf dem Klo, alter Holzfußboden,  sehr angenehm, alte Lampen mit goldgelbem  Licht schaffen eine Wohlfühlathmosphäre  Es geht ein verblichener Charme von dem Haus aus. Einige Gäste bleiben offenbar länger, haben sich für Wochen eingemietet.

Hostels sind kommunikative Räume, alle sind gleich in Kontakt, Alter, Herkunft ect. spielt keine Rolle, tauschen ihre Reiseerfahrungen aus, teilen oft Obst, Gemüse, Getränke oder was grad so fehlt, helfen aus mit Kabeln, Nähzeug, Taschentüchern, Waschmittel ect. ect. . Daher scheint es fast selbstverständlich, dass ich hier gut aufgehoben bin mit meinem Hilfebedarf.

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Diese Rose aus Palmblättern schenkte mir ein Hawaiianer, der auch Schüsseln und Hüte aus den schmalen Blättern fertigt, als er meinen Arm in Gips sah.

Wenn das so weitergeht will ich am Ende nicht mehr auf den Gips verzichten. So viel Mitgefühl von so vielen Leuten, in jedem Laden, bei Wanderungen, auf der Strasse, ständig fragen die Leute und interessieren sich, alle Leute die einmal eine Fraktur hatten erzählen die eigene Geschichte,  das heißt hier ein Schwatz und dort ein Schwatz.

Ist natürlich nett auf diese Weise mit vielen Leuten in Kontakt zu kommen,  auch wenn es schon Mal zeitaufwendig ist.

 

BIG ISLAND

Hier lasse ich im besten Krankenhaus von Hawaii, so steht’s auf einem Plakat, meinen Arm röntgen. Alles ist auf einem guten Weg, ich freue mich, denn in 2 Wochen darf ich den Gips abnehmen.

Danach habe ich mir das Holoholoinn Hostel ausgesucht, in Volcano Village,  im Regenwald und ganz nah beim Vulkan Naturpark, mein wichtigstes Ziel um diesen aktiven Vulkan zu besuchen.

Mit dem Bus nur 1,5 Std. 28 Meilen. Die Busfahrerin ist eine Art Sozialarbeiterin mit Busführerschein. Die Busfahrt ist ein reines Vergnügen, da braucht man nichts zu lesen.

Erst mal entschuldigt sie ich bei allen Fahrgästen die zusteigen für die Verspätung und erklärt warum. Selbstverständlich hebt sie meinen Koffer in den Bus und platziert mich und denselben an einem sicheren Ort.

Eine Familie mit 3 Kindern und einem Kinderwagen, will offenbar zu einem anderen Bus, der aber weiter entfernt abfährt. Die nimmt sie mit und lässt sie an entsprechender Stelle wieder raus, nicht ohne zu erklären wie sie es zukünftig machen sollen, da sie das nicht immer so lösen kann. Jeder neue Fahrgast wird begrüßt mit der Frage wie geht’s.

Verabschiedet mit dem Satz,: “have a good one”, ob sie damit ein gutes Wochenende meint oder nur den Abend, bleibt offen.

An den Haltestellen wo niemand bei ihr einsteigt plaudert sich kurz mit den Leuten, die auf einen anderen Bus warten.

Während der Fahrt plaudert sie mit dem Einen oder Anderen, scherzt, fragt wo er denn diesmal raus möchte, hier oder dort, da er offenbar öfter mitfährt und sie einige Gewohnheiten von ihm kennt. Kurz bevor wir in Volcano Village sind wendet sie sich mir zu und fragt, wo genau ich hin möchte damit ich richtig aussteige. Sie erklärt genau wie die Gegebenheiten sind, und das Hostel kenne sie nicht. Village, da dachte ich kleiner Ort mit nettem Zentrum.

Nein, nur zwei kleine Zentren mit Post und kleinem Geschäft oder Restaurant und Waschsalon, alle anderen Häuser sind hier im Regenwald verstreut. Mmmmhh, wo soll ich raus schließlich muss ich den schweren Koffer ziehen, meilenweit geht das nicht. Ich entscheide, sie sagt das sei sicher eine gut Wahl,  einen Fahrgast weißt sie an mir den Koffer  aus dem Bus tragen.

Das muss das Aloha sein, was schon in Oahu spürbar war.

Dieses Prachtweib werde ich niemals vergessen.

Verglichen mit Busfahrern in Deutschland, dazwischen liegen Welten.

Am kleinen Imbiss an der Ecke bekomme ich gleich die Wegbeschreibung, die Wirtin weiß genau wo das Hostel ist. Ich erfahre es liegt auch mitten im Regenwald. Mit meinem Koffer zieh ich also ab,  hinein in den dichten Wald, wo es überall tropft, gleich ist auch ein Sprühregen spürbar, es bleibt nicht der einzige in diesen Tagen

Dort treffe ich eine Deutsche, die seit 35 Jahren hier irgendwo lebt.

Dann kommt Juli aus Boston dazu. Und das ist der Renner.

Wieder eine Begegnung, die ich nicht vergessen werde. Sie hat einen Jeep gemietet und freut ich über Leute die mit ihr die Gegend erkunden wollen. Ich komme ihr gerade recht und sie mir.

Noch am gleichen Abend fahren wir zu einem der glühenden Vulkan, den man nur  im Dunkel richtig gut sehen kann.

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Was wir dann an den beiden nächsten Tagen gemeinsam erleben, muss einen Extraplatz bekommen.  Es  ist wieder einmal ein unbeschreibliches Erlebnis.

Kommentare, gerne!

 

 

 

3.681 Gedanken zu „Hawaii, noch schöner als erwartet

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