Neuseeland – bebende Naturidylle

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                                                                                                               Kia ora – Willkommensgruss der Maori

                                                                                                               Talofa, aus welchem Land war der nochmal ?

                                                                                                                Kleine Hilfe, Insel der Südsee!

Das neue Jahr, der erste Januar beginnt in Brisbane, mit einigen unangenehmen Überraschungen. Der gebuchte Flieger will mich nicht mitnehmen, weil ich keinen Flug von Neuseeland wieder weg hab. Es hilft kein Argument, ich muss jetzt entscheiden wann ich wieder raus fliege aus Land und das sofort auf dem Airport buchen. Dann hab ich das Problem, wie ich in Neuseeland reinkomme mit meinen Heilkräutern und Heilpilzen. Soll ich die direkt in Brisbane in ein Schließfach bringen oder es einfach versuchen? Flieg ich überhaupt nochmal über Brisbane. Alles ist unklar, seit langem hab ich echt Stress wg. der Einreise in dieses Land. Also schließlich buche ich den Flug, nehme alles mit und hoffe, hoffe, hoffe.

Es ist bereits 23:00h als ich ankomme, dann geht es los, mehrere Kontrollen der Papiere, mein Koffer, meine Taschen und meine Schuhe, einfach alles. Sie sind freundlich aber sehr konsequent. Die Hälfte meiner chinesischen Heilkräuter bin ich los, akribisch wird geprüft was nach Samen aussieht ab in die Tonne. Zum großen Glück kann ich, nach einigen Erklärungen und Argumenten, das es sich nicht um Sporen sondern um Extrakte handelt, meine Heilpilze dann behalten. Uff, das war eine Ochsentour, ich stehe auf der Straße der Skybus ist weg, dann muss ich mir wohl ein Taxi leisten. Das Taxi kommt und kostet plötzlich 10 Dollar mehr als vom Hostel angegeben, die mir dieses Taxi empfohlen hatten. Mein verhandeln hilft nichts ich muss zum Hostel, also akzeptiere ich.

Das ist wahrlich ein recht holpriger Start ins „Neue Seeland“. Es hat mir schon die Vorfreude etwas verdorben. Was erwartet mich noch, frage ich mich langsam?

Auckland, die größte Stadt des Landes, zeigt sich an den nächsten beiden Tagen ziemlich geschlossen, denn es sind Feiertage bis zum 04.01. und das wird offensichtlich sehr ernst genommen, alle Läden und Informationsstellen sind geschlossen. Vom Bamber-Hostel, das sehr gut ist, aber weit außerhalb, ziehe ich ins City Garden Lodge um, überall treffe ich Deutsche, diese beiden Hostels sind fast von ihnen eingenommen. Das Hosteldasein gestaltet sich in diesem Land anders als ich es bisher erlebte. Matratzen und Ausstattung wird etwas besser, dafür der Umgang miteinander distanzierter. Die jungen Leute scheinen weniger interessiert aneinander sondern eher auf dem individual Trip. Oder habe ich mich verändert?

 

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Am 04.01. plane ich dann meine Weiterreise durch das Land. Wieder einige Stunden Planung beim I-site, das ist die Touristinfo. Dort treffe ich auf eine junge Frau, die leider ganz neu dort ist. Mithilfe einer Kollegin und meiner unendlichen Geduld bekomme ich schließlich ein erschwingliches Angebot.

 

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Eine Tour zum Norden zum Cap Reigna, mache ich am kommende Tag mit Kiwitours. Zunächst geht es nach Paihia, einem touristisch voll erschlossenen Ort, an der malerischen Island Bay, mit einigen kleinen Inseln. Ein kleiner Hafen, mit der Fähre lädt ein zu anderen Seite nach Russel zu fahren, dort gibt es einen Küstenwanderweg. Doch der Wanderweg durch den Regenwald in Paihia scheint mir verlockender und den erkunde ich. Belohnt werden Wandersleute mit einem großartigen Blick über Bucht, Segelhafen und die Inselgruppe. Doch auch der Pfad durch den Wald mit den vielen unterschiedlichen Farnarten, Moosen und Flechten, fasziniert. Am Tag darauf lerne ich den weiblichen Farntree kennen, den Maoris auch unter ihre Speisen mischen, da er heilsame Inhaltsstoffe, enthält. Der Farn ist das wahre Zeichen von Neuseeland ,er ist allgegenwärtig, während der Kiwi gänzlich unsichtbar bleibt, ist auch ein nachtaktives Tier.

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Auf der Fahrt zum Cap Reigna schmeichelt dem Auge eine liebliche Hügellandschaft mit Rinder- und Schafweiden, grüne Hänge wechseln mit Nadelwäldern, dazwischen schlängeln sich Flüsse und Bäche mit Uferbüschen. Die dunkelgrünen Tupfen, Büsche und kleine Waldstücke, auf den hellgrünen Wiesen, muten an als wären sie mit dem Farbpinsel hingekleckst.

Kia Ora ruft Willi uns zu, es ist der Willkommensgruß der Maori.

Der Maoriguide Willi, weiß viele Geschichten zu erzählen als seine Vorfahren das Land bewohnten. Busch- und Regenwald bildeten den dichten Bewuchs der nur zu Fuß zu erkunden war. Das Eintreffen der westlichen Seefahrer und späteren Landbesetzer veränderte das Leben der Urbevölkerung drastisch und brachte blutige Konflikte mit sich.

Das Land wurde mehr und mehr von Regenwald „befreit“ um es für Landwirtschaft und Weideland zu nutzen und hohe Erträge zu erzielen.

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Dörfer reihen mit kleinen, meist fachen Einfamilienhäuser an der Straße entlang. Oft mit nagelscheren-englichem Rasen, den Blumenbeeten mit Rosen; in nahezu jedem Garten Neuseelands finden sich blaue und weise Hortensien und Agapanthus.

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 Auf der 90 Miles Beach, der ganz einfach mit dem Bus befahren wird, kommt es zu einem spektakulären Ereignis als der Bus stecken bleibt und alle Mitreisenden helfen müssen diesen wieder flott zu machen. Doch so ganz glauben kann ich dem pfiffigen Guide nicht, hat er das Ganze höchstwahrscheinlich inszeniert? Denn er bleibt erstaunlich gelassen. Als der Bus wieder frei ist geht es los in wilder Fahrt am Ozean entlang und auch in die Wellen hinein.

Weiter vorbei an der Küste, zu einer riesigen Düne, wo alle mit einem Plastikboard ausgestattet wird und dann geht es mit Tempo den Sanddünenhang hinunter. Es ist ein riesiges Vergnügen, wieder und wieder den Hang hinauf, auf das Board, Kopf hoch und mit Tempo die Sanddüne hinunter.

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Nachdem die erste Angst überwunden ist traue ich mich ebenfalls, erst den halben, dann den ganzen Hügel hinunter. Die Foto’s hat Willi geschickt, mich hat zum Glück niemand fotografiert.

Das ganze Kap besteht aus einem Untergrund aus Sand, viele Kilometer lang und breit, bis zum nördlichsten Punkt Neuseelands, dem spirituellen Cap der Maori. Cap Reigna wird bis heute von Maori’s genutzt um Kontakt mit den Ahnen aufzunehmen. Denn sie glauben, dass deren Seelen hier in die ewigen Jagdgründe eingehen und weisen Rat geben aus dem Jenseits, wenn er nur innig erbeten wird.

In Paihia besteige ich am nächsten Morgen wieder einmal ein Boot um die malerische Bay the Island mit den zahlreichen kleinen und ganz kleinen Inseln etwas näher zu betrachten aber ganz besonders um Delfine in der freien Natur zu sehen.

Nicht einmal 15 Minuten tuckert das Boot in die Bay hinaus als sich erste Delfine zeigen, erst lassen sich nur 2-3 sehen. Dann sind sie plötzlich auf beiden Seiten des Bootes, direkt vor uns. Als wollten sie mit uns spielen, schwimmen sie um das Boot herum, unter dem demselben durch. Als ich vorne an der Reeling sitze bekomme ich den Wasserstrahl aus dem Blasrohr eines Delfin‘s genau ins Gesicht, eine freudige Überraschung, so nah war ich den Meeressäugern noch nie.

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Sie sind das reinste Vergnügen, verspielt, neugierig, graziös, voller Vertrauen. Wie schön wäre es mit ihnen zu schwimmen oder einfach nur neben ihnen im Wasser zu sein.

Es scheinen immer mehr zu werden um das Boot herum. Es sind Bottlenoose-Delfine, sagt der Kapitän und seine Crew, eine junge Frau. Beide weisen auf einen Mutterdelfin mit einem Jungen hin. Das heißt, wir werden nicht mit ihnen schwimmen können, denn es würde die beiden stören, das Junge könnte nicht genug zu trinken bekommen und wäre rasch gefährdet. Denn es muss wegen des hohen Wärmeverlustes alle 10 Minuten Energie tanken.

 

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Das ist wirklich schade, doch die Tiere machen so viel Freude, zwei springen sogar synchron vor unseren Augen senkrecht aus dem Wasser um in hohe Bogen elegant wieder einzutauchen. So ist diese kleine Enttäuschung rasch verschmerzt, zumal ein frischer, recht kühler Wind aufgekommen ist, trotz blauem Himmel und Sonne.

Wir bekommen noch weitere Tiere zu sehen, die dort heimisch sind, z.B. Tölpel, die aus Australien zum Nisten zu dieser Insel kommen.

Nach kurzer Rückkehr nach Auckland, geht es weiter mit dem Intercity Bus in Richtung Südosten nach Coromandel und Whitianga. Immer wieder gibt es Bay’s, die oft ein idealer Naturhafen sind. In Whitianga kommt ein breiter Fluss ins Meer geflossen, der mit der Fähre überquert werden muss, will man eine Attraktion des Ortes, den Hot Water Beach erreichen. Wiedermal hab ich unverschämtes (wieso eigentlich unverschämt?) Glück, als ich dort ankomme ist der Bus weg, er fährt nur alle zwei Stunden und ich muss per Anhalter fahren, sogleich werde ich mitgenommen. Es sind immerhin 25 Km, die hätte ich nicht laufen wollen in der stechenden Sonne Neuseelandes, auf dem Rückweg fährt mich ein junges Paar aus England gleich direkt zur Fähre. Denn das suhlen in den Sandgruben am Strand ist nur möglich während der Ebbezeit. Wer zu spät kommt, den bestraft die Flut.

Sobald die Flut kommt spült sie die Gruben nach und nach flach und überspült die heißen Quellen daher gilt es zur richtigen Zeit dort anzukommen.

Das hab ich geschafft dank der freundlichen Mitnahme im Auto, rasch ein Spaten geliehen und ab über den heißen Sand zu den Quellen. Dort tummeln sich bereits richtige Menschentrauben in den selbst gegrabenen Sandgruben, die sich, wenn man Glück hat, dann mit warmem bis sehr heißem Wasser aus dem Untergrund füllen. Ich habe Glück, wie bereits, gesagt. Bald liege ich im wunderbar warmen Wasser in meiner Grube, die ich mir allerdings immer wieder mit Anderen teile. Auch mein Spaten findet Interessierte, die ebenfalls graben oder vertiefen wollen, daher gibt es Einladungen zu anderen Gruben. Es ist ein buntes Treiben, der neuseeländische Ehemann, der Französin, die hier mir ihrer Mutter neben mir sitzt, rettet mannhaft unsere Grube vor der Flut. Jedenfalls für einige Minuten konnte er seinen mühsam aufgebauten Sandwall halten und unsere Kaltwasserüberflutung hinausschieben.

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Nun muss eine Grube im höheren Bereich gefunden oder gegraben werden, so geht es weiter bis die Meerwasserflut schließlich alles überspült hat. Ein ereignisreicher, lustiger Vormittag der zudem noch sehr kommunikativ war, im leichten lockeren Sinn.

An diesem Ort hab ich gleich zwei Hostels besuchen müssen, da meine erste Wahl nach der ersten Nacht ausgebucht war. So war ich in „Turtlecove“ und „On the Beach“, beide sehr gut, ja sogar schön zu nennen. Im Turtlecove war auch das Internet hervorragend, wenn man das immer vorher wüsste.

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Rotorua mit den überriechenden Heil-Schwefelquellen und einer bemerkenswert schönen Seenlandschaft ist das nächste Ziel. Wie schade, die Gegend lässt sich ohne eigenes Auto schwer erkunden, öffentliche Busse gibt es nicht. Es rächt sich, dass ich mit dem Linksverkehr keine Bekanntschaft machen will. Daher muss ich mich mit einem längeren Spaziergang am ortsnahen See und dem Besuch des Jungbrunnens begnügen. Tatsächlich sollen Menschen, die hier öfter baden, den Alterungsprozess hinausschieben können. Sind daher sehr viele Ältere und auch Menschen mit Gebrechen im Bad?

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Das Heilbad liegt direkt an einem Vogelschutzgebiet und die Möwen, nisten in unmittelbarer Nähe und brüten auf ihren gesprenkelten Eiern, aus denen die ebenso aussehenden Jungen schlüpfen.

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Wellington

Die Hauptstadt auf mehr als sieben Hügeln, zwischen traumhaften Meeresbuchten, alten Wäldern auf dem Viktoriahügel und einem perfekten Naturhafen, ist die letzte Etappe auf der Nordinsel Neuseelandes. Das Te Papa Museum lockt, es wird von allen Seiten begeistert empfohlen.

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In dieser Stadt wurden wesentliche Teile des Filmes Herr der Ringe gedreht. Der alte Wald des Viktoriamountain, bot ideale Kulissen und urwüchsige Baumriesen für diesen höchst erfolgreichen Film.  In Miramar einem Stadtteil, wurden ungenutzte Hallen zu Studios umgebaut, wo beispielsweise der Avatar auch virtuell perfektioniert wurden. Jetzt sind sie Relikte, eine Geldmaschine für findige Unternehmen. Dass was zu sehen ist, ist leicht auch allein zu erkunden mit einem Citybus. Denn die Gebäude dürfen nicht betreten werden, sind nur von außen zu sehen, der kleine Film der in einem winzigen Raum, der wie eine Höhle hergerichtet ist, zeigt wenig Interessantes. Die Halbtagestour kostet 45$, etwas was man, außer dem Film, für 4$ haben kann. Bei diesem Unternehmen zahlen auch Kinder von 0-6 Jahren 30$. Das ist geradezu familienfeindlich.

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Die Erfahrung zeigt, dass nahezu jede Tour vom Entertainment des Guides zu etwas Grandiosem aufgewertet werden soll und muss.

Christchurch und die Südinsel

Dann geht’s weiter mit der Fähre nach Pikton zur Südinseln, wo ich gleich am nächsten Tag mit dem Bus nach Christchurch reise. Gern hätte ich die Strecke an der Küste entlang genommen, doch die Straßen sind vom Erdbeben im November 2016 so zerstört, dass sie nicht passierbar sind. Also 8 Stunden mit dem Intercity durch‘s Inland, vorbei an den unterschiedlichsten Landschaften, die oft an Voralpenland erinnern, mit malerischen Seen, über Flüsse, durch üppigen Regenwald.

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Als ich in Christchurch aus dem Bus aussteige überrascht mich die Sonne, es ist heiß, sogar sehr heiß.

Das ist in Neuseeland wesentlich spürbarer als in Australien, es fehlt die Ozonschicht, ist die Sonne raus, sticht sie extrem. Ohne Sonnblocker kann man hier nicht vor die Türe sonst ist der Sonnenbrand sicher.

Der kurze Eindruck in Christchurch ist ein trauriger, denn die Stadt zeigt noch immer deutliche Spuren, des Erdbebens vor 6 Jahren. Noch immer Bauruinen, große Flächen der Innenstadt sind Lücken, der Gebäude- und Straßenbau sind zwar im vollem Gange das macht große Teile der Innenstadt auf unbestimmte Zeit zur Baustelle.  es macht die Innenstadt derzeit keineswegs noch immer wenig attraktiv. Nicht einfach, die Lage!

Ein Wohlfühl-Hostel das Foley Towers, ein BBH Hostel, nimmt mich auf. Diese Hostelmarke soll neue Qualitätsmaßstäbe setzen in der Hostelwelt Neuseelands. Wenn man zu Beginn der Reise darüber informiert würde, wäre es eine gute Option, denn ein recht gutes Netz und Bedingungen machen das Angebot für länger verweilende interessant.

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Nach Oamaru einige Stunden wenig interessante Busfahrt entlang flacher Felder und Weiden, man glaubt irgendwo in Europa zu sein. In das kleine verschlafene Oamaru, ein Straßendorf mit viele Küste, erfreut sich jedoch des täglichen Besuches gleich mehrerer Pinguinkolonien.

Blaupiguine und Gelbaugenpingiune suchen bei Einbruch der Dunkelheit Schlafstatt in den Büschen entlang der Küste, nur 20 Min. zu Fuß, außerhalb des Ortes.

Leider wird dieses Ereignis, als Touristenattraktion hochpreisig vermarktet, täglich rollen Busse wohl aus der Umgebung auf die Parkplätze und Touristen strömen zu den aufgebauten Tribünen. Ein Wellblechwand verhindert Blicke von kostenlosen Plätzen. Auf Tasmanien lag ich vollkommen alleine auf der Lauer und konnte sie in 50 cm Nähe sehen. Sehr angenehm, wenn das Vermarkten solcher Ereignisse noch nicht entdeckt oder nicht gewollt ist.

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Doch in Oamaru gibt es andere nette Überraschungen. Ich treffe im Mädelszimmer, was in der Hostelsprache Femaldorm heißt, auf zwei deutsche Mädels, es ist wie in meiner Kindheit als ich mit meinen zwei kleineren Geschwistern in einem Raum schlief. Schon verrückt was einem so alles aufgeht. Jedenfalls war es sehr gemütlich, Lena aus der Nähe von Hamburg und Silvia aus dem Saarland, nahmen die Schwesternrolle an, wir kochten und aßen zusammen, Silvia, eine Frisörmeisterin, schnitt uns beiden die Haare, an einem regnerischen Nachmittag. Denn das Wetter ist schon dem deutschen sehr ähnlich, im Sommer regnet es öfter Mal. Die beiden waren gemeinsam im Museum, Silvia und ich unternahmen eine kleine Wanderung und schwatzen gemütlich von alten Zeiten, denn sie hat mit 60, eben wie ich, eine nicht zu verachtende Lebenserfahrung. Es waren denn wirklich erholsame Tage und viel Spaß miteinander. Lena ging nach Süden auf eine Farm zum Heidelbeerpflücken, Silvia machte sich langsam auf den Weg zurück ins wichtigste Bundesland der BRD, das Saarland.

Mein Weg führt mich nach Dunedin, was ganz komisch ausgesprochen wird sowas wie „Duniiiiden“, jetzt hab ich‘s endlich.

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