Bali-erleben und schweben

 

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Eine unverzeihliche Verkürzung, dieser Titel. Er wird der Inselwelt nicht wirklich gerecht. Land und Stimmung in Worten einzufangen überfordert mich hoffnungslos. Als Empfehlung bleibt einzig die Faszination Bali selbst einzufangen.

Die Ankunft war ein wenig holperig um dort zu beginnen. Um 23:00h wollte mich der Shuttlefahrer abholen, per email zugesagt. Ich warte, frage bei der Information nach, schaue alle bereitstehenden Abholer, die mit ihren Schildern wartend am Gatter stehen, drei Mal an, nichts. Was tun, nach Ubud, wo in meinem Homestay ein Bett gebucht ist, ist 1,5 Std. entfernt? Mein herum fragen nach einer Mitfahrgelegenheit, ruft Kopfschütteln und lachen hervor. Vollkommen andere Sitten als ich das bisher erlebt hatte. Schließlich finde ich einen Fahrer, der mich für 400000,00 Rupien mitten in der Nacht dort hinfahren will. Hört sich erst mal viel an, doch schnell stelle ich fest, es sind nur 28,00€. Er ist gut gelaunt, der junge Fahrer, sehr interessiert, beruhigend und zuversichtlich das alles gut wird. Und so wird es auch, ich werde herzlich empfangen, beziehe mein wunderschönes Schlafgemach, ein eigenes kleines Haus, bei der traditionellen, balinesischen Familie und schlafe wie eine Königin.

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Es ist wie „tausend und eine Nacht“, von den Straßen und Wegen nicht einsehbar, muten die reich geschmückten Wohngebäude, mehrere Häuser, jeweils über ein paar Stufen zu erreichen, ein Tempel, die zum , die Schutzgeister darstellen, wie ich später erfahre, inmitten von Bananenstauden, Frangipanibäumen, Bonsai-Bäumchen, Lotosblütentöpfe wie ein kleiner Palast an.

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Nach dem Frühstück, einem liebevoll angerichteten Früchteteller, Rührrei und Toastbrot, mache ich mich auf den Weg, die Künstlerstadt Ubud zu entdecken.

Schnell wird klar, diese Stadt ist in jeder Hinsicht anders als alles was ich bisher sah. Die Stimmung, bestimmt von der sehr eignen balinesischen spirituellen Hindureligion, mit ihren täglichen  Ritualen, beseelt von dem Wunsch ein Leben zu führen, das stets das gute Karma fördert. Unglaublich wie vieles leicht und geschmeidig wird mit dieser Lebenshaltung. Es beeindruckt wie Traditionelles erhalten wird und gleichzeitig Modernes insbesondere  technisches selbstverständlich Raum bekommt und integriert wird in die Rituale. Heute am Tag des Metalls, wird mit großer Ernsthaftigkeit an jedem Auto, Skooter, Roller, Motorrad, ein meist von älteren Frauen gefertigter Schmuck angehängt, der für das Beste Karma beim fahren sorgen soll.

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Allerdings steht der Straßenverkehr, die Fahrweise der Balinesen im krassen Gegensatz dazu. Diese fordert die Schutzgeister verdammt heraus. Es scheint ein heilloses durcheinander rasender zu sein und zufuß Gehende bekommen dabei jedes recht abgesprochen. Das sanfte wahrnehmen des Gegenübers, was den Umgang so wohlfühlig macht, scheint in diesem Bereich außer Kraft gesetzt.

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Ein erkunden der Hanoman Jalan, nach dem mit magischen Kräften ausgestatteten Affengott benannt, zeigt die Schwerpunkte von Ubud. Tempelkunst, in jedem Eingang gibt es Skulpturen, kleine “Altärchen”, jede immer kunstvoll gestaltet Hausanlage hat einen eignen kleinen Tempel. Stein- oder Holzskulpturen, Schutzgeister und -tiere gehören praktisch in und vor jedes dieser Wohnesemble.

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Dazwischen finden die zahlreichen Geschäfte platz mit einem durch sehr ansprechenden, oft preiswerten Angebot. In einem schaue ich mir etwas an, die Verkäuferin, die wohl auch Eignerin ist, bittet mich doch etwas zu kaufen. Sie sei schon glücklich, ja, aber wenn ich etwas kaufen würde, das würde sie noch glücklicher machen, sagt sie mit Herzlichkeit. Ich rede mich raus, denn ich will nichts kaufen, sage ich wolle drüber nachdenken, und fühle mich nicht ganz so wohl dabei.

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Ein riesiges Angebot an Spa, Massagen und vielerlei Schönheitsbehandlungen, wie traditionelle Tätowierungen, Piercing und Haarentfernungen verlocken.

Auch ich lasse mir das nicht entgehen und genieße die Massagen, ebenso verlockt mich Yinyoga und ich nehme es wahr.  Aspekte die das Wohlbefinden auf Bali enorm steigern.

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Attraktion Affenwald, dort führt mich der Weg zuerst hin, ist abenteuerlich. Diesen lustigen, verspielt-frechen  Longtail Makaken fällt man leicht zum Opfer, in doppeltem Sinne.

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Zum Einen sind sie poussierlich, zum Anderen dreist, sie sprangen mir unverhofft an den Beinen hoch, auf Rucksack, Schultern, anderen auch auf den Kopf. Nicht in böser Absicht, einfach interessiert ob es was für sie zu holen gibt. Wasserflaschen waren ein beliebter Artikel, sie zu öffnen, allerdings nicht in der üblichen Weise, ein Kinderspiel und zu trinken offenbar Genuss. Alles glänzende, Sonnenbrillen, Ohrringe(?), Schmuck, der aus meinem Rucksack herausschauende Talisman-Clown ein Anziehungspunkt. Nicht für alle Spaß, die balinesischen Parkwächter verscheuchen die Affen, wenn es gar zu dolle wird, mit Steinschleudern.

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Den Palast, wenig beeindruckend, Wanderung durch die Reisfelder verlockend, aus dem Getümmel der Stadt führt ein schmaler Pfad zwischen den Häusern auf die Felder. Dort gerate ich in eine Künstlerwerkstatt, die mit den typisch balinesischen Bildern auch im Adac Reiseführer zu finden ist.

Die Tagestour führt zum Muttertempel in Besakhi mit seinen eindrucksvollen Gebäuden und Türmen. Die ersten Gebäude entstanden vor mehr als tausend Jahren.

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Zu heiligen Quellen in einem Tempel, der natürlich nur mit Sarong betreten werden darf, findet eine Art Seelenreinigung statt. Vergleichbar mit der christlichen Beichte, sollte man sich das nicht entgehen lassen, so tat ich den Gläubigen gleich, mit Badeanzug und Sarong bekleidet steige ich ins heilige Becken und halte meinen Kopf unter jede sprudelnde Quelle.   DSC_6730   DSC_6732

In einer Kaffeeplantage lerne ich, “die Kaffeespezialität” kennen, die KaffeetrinkerInnen werden wissen wovon ich da rede, die einmal durch den Magen-Darmtrakt des Luwaks, eines marderartigen Tieres gegangen, gewaschen und geröstet zum Hochgenuss wird. Obs stimmt, keine Ahnung, bin Teetrinkerin.

Als wir zum ursprünglichen Dorf Tenganan und dem Fährhafen, der die Inseln Lombok und Giliislands ansteuert, gelangen ist es bereits später Nachmittag.

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Ein sonniger Tag, von nur einem tropischen Regenguss unterbrochen, mit vielen interessanten Einblicken ins balinesische Inselleben.

Die Bustour nach Kuta zeigt eine touristische Seite Bali, den wir eher von Mallorca kennen, der nicht verlockt den Bus zu verlassen.

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Fahrt nach Lovina,

geht über die Berge Balis, immerhin 1700- 2000 m hoch, die vollkommen in Wolken gehüllt sind, in diesen Tagen. Kurze heftige typisch tropische Regenschauer begleiten diesen Roadtrip in den Norden.

Im Norden der Insel würde ich gern schwimmen und schnorcheln, dazu ist so dachte ich Lovina ideal. Es kam anders, die Wellen schlugen zu hoch, um diese Zeit ist Wetter und Meer einfach zu unbeständig.

Das Santhika Bed and Breakfast holt mich mit zwei Skootern an der Bushaltestelle ab, einen für den Koffer, auf den anderen steige ich zu der schönen Balinesin, die den Roller geschickt durch den chaotischen Verkehr der kleinen Stadt laviert.

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Das Hostel ist wieder einmal eine Überraschung. Ein tropischer Garten, kleiner Swimmingpool, umgeben von einer Frösche besiedelten Natureinigungsanlage, noch ahne ich nicht wie diese mich beschäftigen werden. Ich wohne in einem Stelzenhäuschen, wie in einem erhöhten Zelt. Zur Begrüßung gibt es im Haus eigenen Spa- und Massagebereich eine Fußmassage, die wohlfühlige Behandlung wird mir wieder von der eben erwähnten Balinesin zuteil.

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Die Familie, die das Hostel führt, wohnt mit ihrem niedlichen einjährigen Töchterchen Sophia ebenfalls dort. Ihr Geburtstagsritual, von der Großmutter der Kleinen gestaltet, kann ich am Vollmondabend miterleben. Hinduistische Religion feiert jeden Vollmond.

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Ausflug zu den heilenden Quellen und Buddhistentempel mit Ketut, dem vierten Kind, mit dem Motorroller, dessen Mutter 89jährig, ich auch kurz kennenlerne. Die Kinder bekommen hier eine Zahl als Namen, erst, zweit u.s.w. geborene. So haben viele halt den gleichen Namen.

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Die drei Religionen, 80% Hinduisten, 20% Muslime und Buddhisten, leben sehr tolerant miteinander. Auch Mischehen sind keine Seltenheit und kein Problem, dann feiert man eben die Feste beider Religionen.

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Ein interessanter Tag, er begleitet mich, versucht alle Fragen zu beantworten, zahlt die Eintrittsgelder, Parkgebühren. Abschließend besuchen wir ein typisches balinesisches Restaurant. Frischen Fisch, der dann gegrillt wird, dazu einen Salat wie er in Bali üblich ist, mit allerlei mir nicht bekannten Gemüsen und Soja Sprossen. Das alles für 200000,00 Balirupien, hört sich viel an, sind nur ca. 15,00€.

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Am Abend wollte ich mit Jasmine, die ich auf dem Markt kennenlerne, in den Hindutempel zu einem Vollmondritual. Sie will mich mit ihrem Scotter abholen. Damit sie weiß wo genau ich wohne, bringt sie mich nach Hause, das ist wunderbar, denn es beginnt zu regnen, sie nimmt ihr Regencape, ich bekomme den Schirm in die Hand gedrückt.

Das reine Vergnügen, mit den Menschen hier, hilfsbereit, zugewandt, praktisch und bei jedem Wetter Lebensfreude.

Jasmine hat einen 2jährigen Sohn, auf den sie und ihr Mann 18 Jahre gewartet haben, erzählen beide voller Stolz, denn sie sei schon 42.

Leider hört es an diesem Abend nicht mehr auf zu regnen, sodass unser Tempelbesuch mit dem Scooter buchstäblich ins Wasser fällt. Ich sehe sie nicht mehr. In dieser Nacht bekomme ich ein stundenlanges, unmelodisch, lautes Konzert der quakfreudigen Frösche im Naturteich. Dem drängenden Wunsch diese an die Wand zu werfen, mal sehen ob ein Prinz draus wird, habe ich aus Tierliebe widerstanden.

Denn zurück nach Denpasar entscheide ich kurzfristig nachdem es die ganze Nacht geregnet hat, was sage ich, geschüttet hat es. Alle Klamotten sind feucht, die Morgensonne schafft es nicht sie zu trocknen.  Doch es gibt ein Shuttle und obwohl einige Bergstraßen wg. Erdrutschen gesperrt sind schafft es der rasante, dennoch sichere Fahrer in 2,5 Std. bis zum Flughafen, wo einige Reisende aussteigen. Ich lege nochmal was auf den Fahrpreis drauf und er fährt mich zum Hostel in Uluwatu.

Karma Backpacker Hostel, wenn das kein gutes Omen ist!

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Uluwatu-Tempel und Kecak-Feuertanz

Karma Backpacker Hostel, ist ein wenig angelegen, doch weder Tempel noch Strände sind weit. Wir befinden uns auf einer Halbinsel, wg. Linksverkehr und der ungewohnten Fahrweise der Balinesen fahre ich nicht, also mache ich eine Wanderung zum Strand. Beim berühmten Uluwatu Tempel, der direkt auf die Klippen gebaut ist und den nur Gäste mit entsprechendem Outfit betreten dürfen, wenn sie tatsächlich beten wollen, findet jeden Tag ein Kecak-Tanz statt. Es ist eine einmalige Kulisse für diese Veranstaltung. (100000,00 Rupin (7;50€) kaum zu glauben.)

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Allan, fährt und begleitet mich. Alle MitarbeiterInnen des Hostels sind hilfsbereit und von herzlicher Freundlichkeit, für jeden Wunsch offen.

Kecak-Feuertanz , ist ein traditioneller, sagenhafter Tanz, mit den weißen und roten Affen und verschiedenen Sagengestalten.

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Bali, die Insel der 100000 Tempel geizt wahrlich nicht mit Kulturschätzen und traditionellen Ritualen.

 Allen die mehr darüber und über Bali wissen möchten sei das Buch von Vicki Baum, „Liebe und Tod auf Bali“, ans Herz gelegt. Es gibt tiefe und erhellende Einblicke in die alte Kultur, Tradition und Geschichte Balis, ist hochspannend bis zur letzten Seite.

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 Auf der Rückfahrt folge ich mit Allan einer europäischen Kultur, nach dem Kunstgenuss ein kulinarischer, er trinkt eine Kaffeespezialität Balis und ich einen Kakao, ohne Milch und Sahne, dennoch ausgezeichnet.

Dann verlasse ich Bali vorerst in Richtung Kualalumpur, um von dort nach Yangon, der alten Hauptstadt Myanmars zu reisen.

Aufregend genug waren die letzten Tagen, denn das Visum zu beantragen stellte sich als recht kompliziert heraus. Doch mit der Hilfe der guten Geister in Deutschland gelang es.

Danke Euch, Biggi für das Foto, Christina mir ihre gesamten Visacarddaten mitzuteilen
und Christian, der dann schließlich für mich mit seiner Card gebucht hat.

Doch noch immer ist es nicht in meinem emailfach, es ist kurz vor Flug und es muss ausgedruckt vorliegen. Aufgeregt bin ich schon wegen des neuen Landes und jetzt noch das. Ob es noch gelingt?

Flug nach Yangon, juchu es hat geklappt, das Visum kam, in letzter Minute.

 

 

2.791 Gedanken zu „Bali-erleben und schweben

  1. Hallo Mona
    Das freut mich für dich ,das alles geklappt hat …. wie das beim Reisen so ist , werden wohl immer kleinere oder größere Probleme auftauchen , aber wie ich dich in Neuseeland kennengelernt habe , weiß ich ,das du diese Probleme immer sehr gut bewältigst …??
    Freue mich schon auf deine nächsten Berichte……??und wünsche dir weiterhin viel Spaß…….
    Mich hat das Leben hier wieder in seinen Klauen , aber mittlerweile geht es wieder ganz gut , das ich mir immer etwas Freizeit einräumen kann , allerdings vermisse ich das viele wandern ?….. an immer anderen Orten ….
    Bis bald
    Drück dich , das gute Karma aus Bali wird dich begleiten …..?

    • Hallo Silvia,
      schön von Dir zu lesen. Wenn Du was vermisst, schau wie Du es bekommst! Das Wandern in Deutschland ist auch wunderbar nur eben nicht in dieser Jahreszeit.
      Da muss man was finden ?! Bald können wir gemeinsam suchen, hahah.
      Derzeit in Myanmar, die reine Freude.
      Schau in den ersten Blog aus diesem Land!
      Mingalawa Gruß aus Myanmar mona

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