Mekongflußfahrt und Weltkulturerbe Luang Prabang
Slowboat auf dem Mekong
Die Landschaften entlang des Flusses sind ungewöhnlich. Nur sehr wenige Dörfer sind an den Ufern zu sehen, hin und wieder hält das Boot, lädt ab oder etwas auf, ansonsten geht es tatsächlich recht langsam stromabwärts.
Alles sieht friedlich und geruhsam aus. Stress scheint hier nicht zu existieren. Und doch bekommt das kleine Land keine wirkliche Ruhe.
Denn noch immer sind 80 % der landwirtschaftlichen Fläche mit Streubomben sog. Blindgängern aus dem USA- Vietnamkrieg verseucht.
Nicht selten verlieren Bauern oft auch spielende Kinder, Arme, beine Augenlicht oder auch das Leben, wenn sie arglos auf dem Land arbeiten oder herumtollen.
Zwischen 1964-1973 bewarfen die Amerikaner dieses Land mit einer unglaublichen Menge von Bomben 270 Mio.! um den Vietcong auf dem südlich verlaufenden Ho chi min Pfad den Nachschub abzuschneiden und die, sich vermutlich dort versteckenden, Kommunisten zu treffen.
Laos war nie beteiligt am USA-Krieg gegen Vietnam und ist bis heute, 45 Jahre danach, Opfer. Die USA hat sie mit ein paar lächerlichen Mio. abgefunden, die nur ein Tropfen auf den heißen Stein sind um auch nur annähernd die verursachten Schäden zu beseitigen. Sie haben den Land Unsägliches zugemutet und zugefügt, Verantwortung dafür übernehmen Fehlanzeige.
Am 02.05.2017 berichtete Spiegel online aktuell darüber. Das Thema sind die mutigen Minenentschärferinnen, Frauen die täglich unterwegs sind auf den Feldern um Minen aufzuspüren und sie gezielt hochgehen lassen. Diese tapferen Frauen, Mütter, Töchter und Großmütter, die für diese hochgefährliche Aufgabe ausgebildet wurden sind wahre Heldinnen in Laos.
Luang Pragang
Am Abend könnte man meinen am Rhein zu sitzen.
Luang Prabang, Touristenzentrum des Landes ist Weltkulturerbe. Einige Straßen mit architektonisch interessanten Gebäuden der französischen Kolonialzeit, zwischen diesen, laotische Tempel, die die Häuser selbstverständlich an Schönheit bei weitem übertreffen, am Mekong und einem Nebenfluss gelegen, ergeben ein Bild wie aus längst vergangener Zeit.
Eine Fressmeile entlang des Mekong, Restaurants die französische Esskultur signalisieren, laotisches und anderes europäische, bieten auf Terrassen am Fluss essbares, gleich fühlt man sich wieder im hier und jetzt.
Das Leben am Fluß ist hier beschwerlich, ständig müssen Güter des täglichen Lebens von den Booten den steilen Treppenweg heraufgeschleppt werden. Nur an einer Stelle hat man eine Möglichkeit für Fahrzeug gebaut.
Die Tempel, die mich zunächst nicht verlockten, haben dann doch genügend Anziehungskraft besessen einmal in Augenschein genommen zu nehmen.
Was mich dort erwartete war nicht zu ahnen. Gänzlich anderer Baustil als die bisher gesehenen religiösen Stätten. Auch für europäische Augen, eine edle, künstlerische, ja liebevollen Gestaltung, die spirituelle Stimmung hervorzurufen vermag.
Der Nachtmarkt Luang Prabangs ist außergewöhnlich schön und hält ein, für Asien, ebenso ungewöhnliches Angebot bereit. Er ist an Exotik und Buntheit kaum zu übertreffen
Es finden sich viele handgewebte Schals und andere handgefertigte Sachen. Indigo ist die traditionelle Farbe, die Pflanze wird hier kultiviert, die Farbe daraus gewonnen. Auch alle anderen Farben werden aus den verschiedensten Wurzeln, Rinden und Blättern gewonnen um die Stoffe aus Baumwolle oder Hanf zu färben.
Die Werkstatt mit Webstühlen, an denen die Frauen Tag für Tag sitzen und weben, lässt sich besichtigen. Dort werden auch Workshops angeboten, wo Interessierte färben und weben erlernen können.
Der Markt ist das Ereignis jeden Tages, er ist Treffpunkt und Abendbeschäftigung. Ein riesiges Angebot lockt Hunderte Abend für Abend hier her. In einer Seitenstraße gibt es Buffetangebote für kleines Geld. Das vegane Buffet ist das preiswertes und es hat zudem die beste Auswahl.
Rasch ist dort aus einem Brett und zwei Balken Tisch und Bank aufgebaut wo sich Gäste zum Speisen niederlassen können.
Das tue ich ebenfalls und sitze neben einem jungen Mann aus Vietnam, mit dem ich rasch im Gespräch bin zum Thema Ernährung. Sein Name ist Son, was Berg bedeutet, er und seine Frau haben vor einer Weile begonnen mit einer makrobiotischen Ernährungsweise. Er kommt aus Hanoi und fliegt einen Tag vor mir dorthin. Wir bleiben in Kontakt über Netzwerke des Internets. Und sehen uns vielleicht wieder, denn 2 Tage später fliege ich ebenfalls dorthin.
Ebenfalls der Morningmarket, ein Gemüse und Fleischmarkt, ist eien Ereignis. Schon sehr früh am Morgen bieten die Leute aus den Hilltribes, die Schätze ihres kleinen Gartens oder im Regenwald gesammeltes oder anderswo gekauftes an.
Eine seltsame, getrocknete Wurzel, liegt hier immer wieder zum Verkauf. Was ist das, frage ich, es ist nicht heraus zu finden, doch irgendwann steht Dendrobium angeschrieben, das muss sie sein. Bei weiterer Recherche komme ich der Sache näher, ein Deutscher, Markus Weber fand 2004 forschend eine psychoaktive Wirkung heraus. Aha, jetzt lüftet sich das Geheimnis etwas!
Ebenfalls wird die Wurzel in der chin. Medizin in Rezepturen verwendet. Was nicht verwundert, China ist ja nicht weit, sodass ähnliche Heilmittel hie wie dort zu finden sind. Leider kein Foto, hab’s nicht mehr gefunden, schade.
Auch Hühner und Gänse, so wie Schweinefleisch aus eigener Aufzucht haben sie von weither angeschleppt. Auch viele Arten von Pilzen, die ich nur zum Teil kenne.
Doch da begegne ich Vanizia, sie ist Laotin, lebt in Australien und wird augenblicklich mein Guide für diesen Markt. Sie erklärt geduldig und beantwortet gern meine Fragen. Es macht Spaß nun über alles Fremde auf dem Markt etwas zu erfahren. Eine lebende Schildkröte in einem Eimer kommt nicht in den Suppentopf, wie ich vermutete, sie ist ein heiliges Tier hier und soll einem Tempel zum Geschenk gemacht werden. Wilde Bienenwaben aus dem Regenwald sind im Angebot. Mir fremde Früchte sind als Kostprobe aufgeschnitten, alles was Vanizia empfiehlt probiere ich auch.
Nach dem Markt trinken wir einen frisch gepressten Mangosaft zusammen und tauschen unsere Kontaktdaten aus. Dann zieht es uns beide, vom Schauen hungrig zum Frühstück, sie zu ihrer Familie und mich in mein Hotel.
Die Tage in Luang Prabang sind heiß, sehr heiß, an meinem letzten Tag hier werden 38,5 Grad gemessen. Schön und noch erträglich ist es sehr früh morgens. Daher hab ich mich getraut und einen Motorroller gemietet, der mich zum 30 Km entfernten Wasserfall bringen soll. Die Straße ist recht gut doch sind die Brücken eine Herausforderung, übe die Holzbretter die quer den Boden bilden sind zwei Bahnen längs Bretter gelegt, die der PKW mit seien Reifen rechts und links treffen muss und ich mit dem Roller muss eine Bahn richtig treffen. Bei jeder Brücke zittere ich ein wenig, doch es gelingt. der Wasserfall liegt in einem recht dichten Wald nur ein paar Pfade und hie und dort ein kleines Bambusbrückchen zwischen den hohen Bäumen führen zu der mächtig hohen Steilwand von der das Wasser, trotz der langen Trockenperiode, in breitem Fluss herunterschießt. Doch das Beste, es sammelt sich in vielen Stufen immer wieder zu Seen in denen nicht nur gebadet sondern sogar geschwommen werden kann.
Ein super erfrischendes Vergnügen bei dieser Hitze ins kühle, blaue Süßwasser zu steigen. So tummeln sich alle die den Wasserfall besuchen irgendwann in einem der Schwimmbecken. Den ganzen Tag im kühlen Wald und im Wasser macht die Fahrt zurück erträglich, obwohl der Fahrtwind wie ein Heißluftherd anmutet.
Der Flug nach Hanoi ist kurz, das Ein-
und Auschecken lang, auch weil ich nicht bedacht habe, dass ich ein Visum brauche. Doch die Busfahrt wäre länger, vor allem aber mühseliger gewesen. Ohne Visum darf ich nur zwei Wochen im Land bleiben. Im Hostel angekommen hat man schnell eine Lösung, in drei Werktagen wird gegen 38$, ohne großes Federlesen, ein Visum für 4 Wochen besorgt.
Hanoi – was erwartet mich, Neugier ist genügend da.
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